An overview of the function and details of the Filament Maker Nozzle. These essentials are to help you understand how best to use the machine to your specifications.
The Filament Maker extrudes with a collection of features and components working together efficiently. It is up to the user to utilize these tools and ensure that the machine works well.
Table of Contents
Function
Features
Things to Watch Out For
Machine Settings
Safety / Error Messages
Further Information
Function
Very simply put, the nozzle provides the already hot and liquid material to flow out of the Filament Maker which is then ready for cooling. This action gives the whole process its signature name: extrusion.
Because this is the transitional space between extreme temperature differences, the nozzle's singular most important function is to be hot enough to let plastic through.
Size
The nozzle size is directly connected to the filament diameter. Regardless of which nozzle size is used, the diameter of the nozzle should always be larger than the diameter of the desired filament.
The different sizes are 4, 3, and 2 millimeter in internal diameter.
The industry standard for filament diameter is 1.75mm, and less commonly 2.85mm.
To state the obvious: a 2.85mm diameter will not be achieved with a 2mm nozzle.
It is important to note that all melted plastics are stretchy to some degree, therefore the final filament dimension is achieved through pulling, either by gravity or the puller wheel.
Features
Since all three nozzles can be used for different extrusions, we have listed a somewhat simplified overview of each of their benefits and risks:
4mmThe Filament Maker comes with this nozzle size by default. It is a decent choice when extruding most polymers because it has the lowest risk of clogging. Because of its 4mm size, both 2.85mm and 1.75mm filaments are achievable. 3mm and 2mmThese smaller nozzle sizes are less commonly used, but can be incredibly helpful in a lot of extrusion situations. They are used when working with polymers that cannot withstand tension, for example rubbery polymers like TPE, or TPU. |
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They can also be used when extruding polymers with a high percentage of additives. The more additives a filament has, the less percentage of plastic it has, meaning it becomes less stretchy or malleable.
Caution!
However, both of these nozzles carry a greater risk of clogging due to their reduced diameter size, with 2mm having the highest risk.
Only use these if you have practiced enough with a range of mid-temp materials and can comfortably extrude with a 4mm nozzle without clogging.
Things to Watch Out For
The number one nozzle related issue is clogging. There are two main reasons why this can happen.
Particle Size
If particle sizes are too big, they will not melt sufficiently and clog the nozzle from the inside. This is why we recommend feeding material (in pellet, shredded, ground, or powder form) that is no larger than 4mm in diameter.
A more rare issue is early melting. This is technically also linked to size, because material melts and clumps together early in the barrel and forms larger structures, which refuse to melt later on potentially clogging the nozzle. More information about this can be found in Heaters Essentials, especially in relation to Heater 4, and Hopper Essentials.
Temperature
Since it is essential for the nozzle to be hot enough to extrude material, clogging is very often caused by the nozzle being too cold. This is mainly the responsibility of Heater 1 as discussed in Heaters Essentials.
However, it is a common issue that the nozzle is accidently cools down from the outside. This can be due to sudden low temperatures in the environment where the machine is placed (like a warehouse in winter), but most commonly it is due to the positioning of the Fans.
More information can be found in Fans Essentials, but in essence, the filament fans must be turned down and away from the nozzle.
Die Head
The nozzle is designed to be easily removable for maintenance, swap, and cleaning purposes. This is a moderately difficult procedure with risks, as the machine needs to be hot with the material partially melted. We have the full guide here.
Removing anything other than the nozzle is not recommended and can cause damage to the machine. This also includes the die head.
The illustration below shows how the nozzle slots into the compression coupling knee, often simply called the elbow. The larger component that connects the barrel/screw with the elbow is the die head. It is fitted in perfectly to avoid any leaking even under immense pressure.
Removing the die head risks making the Filament Maker unusable.
This is because reassembling it without the necessary tools, knowledge and practice will risk breaking the gasket inside the die head, which essentially makes the Filament Maker unusable.
Machine Settings
There are no electronics connected to the nozzle.
It is simply a hardware feature.
Safety / Error Messages
Safety Warnings:
Caution!
The nozzle has no heater, but it is of course very hot due to induction.
Do not touch the nozzle with bare hands!
Be careful even after the FM has been turned off as the metal stores heat for a long time.
Caution!
The nozzle is the location where hot liquid material exits the machine.
Do not put your face near the nozzle!
Always use tools or heatproof gloves to handle filament or extruding material at the nozzle!
Error Messages:
There are no electronics connected to the nozzle, therefore no error messages.
Further Information
Find out more about Nozzle Build-Up, as well as How to Replace the Nozzle.
Next essential: The Fans